Thad Mills

New Episode of Home Made Simple on OWN Tomorrow 10am/11c

2011-12-10T12:14:00.000-08:00

http://www.homemadesimple.com/en-US/tv/Pages/dad-makes-up-for-lost-years.aspx

Bradley turns an unorganized space into a Hollywood-inspired room for his daughter.

Bradley’s daughter Rene is moving to Los Angeles from Canada to live with him, his wife Joanie and their two sons, Marcus and Sammy. Everyone’s excited, but Rene’s soon-to-be room needs to be organized and decorated. With the help of host Paige Davis, designer Tracy Metro, carpenter Thad Mills and chef Jesse Bruns, the family will transform the room into a welcoming, glamorous space for Rene.

Tune in to the show every Sunday at 11am/10c on OWN, then come back for project details.

Wall-Mounted TV Shelving Project

2011-11-07T11:47:00.000-08:00

Check out this Wall Mounted TV Shelving project from homemadesimple.com. Its super easy and can be done for next to nothing!! This is a perfect project for anyone that needs to organize their entertainment area and add some a contemporary look to a room. Click on the link to read all about the materials you need, how to install it and even tips along the way to improve the construction and look of it.

http://www.homemadesimple.com/en-us/homeorganization/pages/wall-mounted-tv-shelving.aspx

Beams for Substructure Support

2009-09-20T19:01:00.000-07:00

I used a double 2X10 nailed together with 16d nails to create the beams that the deck would sit on, then attached the beam to the tops of the 4X4 posts that are cut to elevation using 16d nails and 4X4 to 2X10 metal plates. Using 2x10's for the floor joists means I can span a longer range from my ledger board on the house to my beams that will support them at the far edge of the deck. I placed my foundations and beams so that I would never span more than 10 feet without being supported by a beam. Its a little over kill for that specific wood, it can span up to 16 feet in between beam supports but its always been my pet peeve to build things stronger than they call for in the specs. An easy tool to use to calculate the span that the joists you are using can span is a free online calculator .http://www.decks.com/Calculators/JoistSpan.aspx.

Digging and Setting Post Hole Foundations

2009-09-19T09:06:00.000-07:00

When you are digging holes for your post foundations, make sure you are 3 feet to the top of the bell and 4 foot to the bottom of the hole. Then, you pour your concrete around the post and it will fill the area; this creates a ledge inside of the hold so that does not allow the permafrost to push your foundations up. I like to use an 8-inch auger bit to drill a hole that allows a couple of inches on all sides of the post for concrete. Once all your posts are set, use a builders level to ensure the same elevation on all the posts. Then, cut the posts to same height.

Summer Deck Construction

2009-09-13T13:23:00.000-07:00

I have been involved in allot of summer carpentry projects this year and one of the most common is Deck building. I wanted to share some of the tips and tricks that I have run a crossed and made note of while I am working to make the job a little faster and efficient while maintaining a safe working environment.

This is an old cedar deck that is starting to fall apart and breakdown over tough weathering conditions. The owners wanted a new design to increase the square footage as well as building it out of a material that is low matenince that dosent require re-finishing every couple of years.

Demoing existing structures.

Before you get to the fun part of new construction you have to of course demo the old and make way for the new. This too can be a fun stage of any project but also a dangerous one too. I have seen situations get out of control by trying to work to fast or not thinking before you make a cut or put steel to wood in an attempt to persuade a piece of wood to move.

In this picture I am cutting in between the joist bays to break apart the structure in more manageable pieces. Using a cats paw (nail puller) you can remove the nails from the joist to the foundation and the section should be able to come apart allot easier and faster than using a leverage bar to rip up individual planks.

Eco Friendly Paints and Stains

2009-01-22T15:47:00.001-08:00

Using Eco friendly paints and stains is one of the ways to contribute to a cleaner planet beginning from your own shop or home project. Even though they might be on the more expensive side, they are often better quality, and, of course, safer to use. Rather than using the typical petroleum based stains, you can purchase soy, citrus oil, or castor oil based products instead. Products that have citrus or castor oils in them last longer than traditional stains, and have a harder surface finish so they can be used for both interior and exterior applications. You can also find sealers and adhesives that are eco friendly; all of which have low VOC’s and some are isocyanate free, a chemical that is toxic and may potentially cause asthma. By using these products for your project you are not only helping to stop the production of harmful materials, but also keeping your household, and the ones you love, safe.

Plumb-Level-Square: Three Rules in Carpentry to live by

2009-01-21T16:05:00.000-08:00

Whether you are framing walls, hanging sheet rock, laying flooring, or installing a door, every carpenter must ensure projects are plumb, level and/or square. Plumb can be established with a level, preferably the longest available, to give you the most accurate reading. You can also use a plumb bob to ensure your project is perfectly upright; if you are outdoors and bobbing more than 10 feet, I suggest using a heavier bob to help steady it from the elements.

Level can be determined by- you guessed it-a Level! Make sure to keep the bubble in the middle of the two black lines and you are good to go.

Square is the most difficult measurement to achieve. It can take two people to square a big project, one person to measure while the other person stabilizes it. There are a couple of different ways to achieve square. You can either build a jig that is square and use it against the edges of your project, or you can hook your tape measure at one corner of the project and pull to the other end, giving you a diagonal measurement. Do the same diagonal measurement from the other corner to the opposite side, and the two measurements should be the same. If they are not identical, adjust the sides until they are the same.

Essential tools for the job

2009-01-11T16:14:00.001-08:00

Here are a few tools I always keep on me, and some on the job must-haves to be able to complete your average carpentry projects. It is said that tools are extensions of our hands, so you don’t necessarily have to buy the most expensive tool out there, but you have to have the basics:

-Hammer
I say- If it doesn’t fit get a bigger hammer!
-Tape Measurer
Keep it clean and in good condition; it will keep you on your mark.
-Pencil
A short Pencil is better than a long memory.
-Utility Knife
Multifunctional- You can cut and score materials, plus the added bonus of sharpening your carpentry pencil with it.
-Speed Square
Lay this triangular tool on a piece of lumber to give you a strait cutting line
-Skill Saw or Worm Drive
This is faster than a traditional handsaw. Don’t pin the guard back, remember safety first!
-Power Drill
Used for driving screws and drilling pilot holes so the lumber won’t split.
-4 ft. Level
This tool keeps you inline with one of the three rules of carpentry: Plumb, Level, and Square

There are so many others, but for your average fix-it jobs around the house these are the carpentry tools that will make your life a lot easier. Word of caution- when you use the wrong tool for the job you could end up breaking it or hurting your self.

Here are some other tools that you could add in more advanced projects:

12” Level- for those hard to reach areas
24” Level- for door headers
Chalk Line- Make two marks on each end and this handy tool makes a strait line
Plumb Bob- Always check for Plumb
Nail Set- Countersink those nails and fill in with putty
Mallet- It won’t mar your finished surface, if you have to help it in place.
When a metal hammer is too aggressive, this won’t mark, or deform, your projects
Framing Square- This tool gives you a perfect 90-degree corner
1” Chisel-When you just need a little off the top
Cats Paw- For the ‘oops’ nail drives, use this tool to grab your nail head and pull

Welcome

2008-12-26T20:01:00.001-08:00

Carpentry has always been a passion of mine and although I love the emails from viewers I haven't received many questions about the things I have created on the show. I have always wanted to share my knowledge about carpentry so I created this blog as an interactive tool for people who have questions regarding the show, personal projects or general D. I. Y. inquiries.

If you have any questions or comments about the projects in the shows I have been on, feel free to ask me about how I structurally designed them, what materials I used and the techniques that went into making them.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Anonymous said...

Hi Thad:

There are a number of things you built that I like, but one of the things I'm curious about is the countertop you put in the fireman's kitchen. It was out of stone and looked like it was not pieced together so how did you make the hole to put the sink in? Also, what did you use to cut it to the size you wanted? I have a small slab of granite I want to make into a table top and I'd like a hole in it for my lamp cord.Love watching you on the show. Keep up the good work!

Ann

Thad Mills said...

Ann,

The counter top that Nancy had me make on that episode is made out of Quartz. It’s a less expensive stone, but still gives the expensive look that granite would. She was able to get a really good deal on it by buying it in a slab instead of a precut piece. The tricky part is if you have to cut it yourself. I used a wet skill saw that I bought at Home Depot specifically for that job. It looks like a regular skill saw that you cut 2X4s with, but it uses a diamond blade that cuts solid stone and a special water hose attachment that came with the saw. The water sprays right on the blade as you cut; it keeps the blade both cool and lubricated so that the stone chips less. The slab was not strait to start with so I had to set up a strait edge to guide my saw. Since the hole for the sink was in the middle of the slab, I had to use a grinding wheel (commonly referred to as a die grinder) with a 1/8th of an inch disk to plunge cut the hole out.

You can buy a special bit that will drill out a perfect circle in your piece of granite for all your cords to go through. The drill pieces might get expensive, but since you are cutting a nice stone like granite, you will want to make the investment. If you don’t have a drill, or don’t want to spend the money on a diamond core bit, you could try calling a fabrication shop that has the special equipment to do it.

Bowen said...

Just watched your episode with the two stuntmen. Awesome. I wished they had shown how you built the bed out of the bowling lane. Do you have to do something special when ripping a piece that is a composite of other boards like that? What about all that polymer or resin on it? Does that require a special saw blade? Oh, and what's with the palm nailer? Are your arms wearing out already? Hollywood making you soft?
January 10, 2009 10:14 AM

Thad Mills said...

Bowen,

The bowling lane had the hardest finish I have ever removed. After three chemical strips and a lot of sanding using a very heavy 60 grit, then I worked my way up to 150 to finish the process. It was then ready to cut, but the problem was the lane was made up of 2 inch strips of wood nailed about every 10 inches together, so I knew I was going to hit a nail while I was cutting it. I picked up a couple of 40 tooth saw blades, knowing that I was going to be burning through them very fast. Goggles, a face shield, and long sleeves where a must when doing this because I was cutting through nails through out the whole process. Once I had my long strips for the bed frame, I cut a 45-degree miter joint on the ends where they would meet to form a big box. I attached the pieces together with metal L brackets so that if the homeowner wanted to disassemble it later he could. I then ran a couple of 2X6 across the inside of the frame to support the mattress using 2x6 joist hangers to help support the lumber.

The palm nailer is a handy tool that wood framers use to drive long nails into lumber. It’s more efficient than a hammer, and puts less strain on your arm, if you have a lot of nails to drive